B/NDAGE
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN's Spring/Summer 2026 men's collection takes its inspiration from the works and worldview of Robert Mapplethorpe, a photographer active in the latter half of the 20th century. Inspired by his iconic "Self Portrait" (1983), in which Mapplethorpe himself held a knife and became the subject, the collection not only features motifs of the knife itself but also expresses its aggressive and rebellious attitude through cut-off designs. Stemming from this, and drawing inspiration from the works of Rebecca Horn and Lucio Fontana, the collection also includes denim sets, tailored jackets, shirts, and trousers with bold slashes and slits.
Conversely, designs resembling bandages, as if to heal these knife cuts, have also been conceived. These are inspired by Mapplethorpe's "White Gauze" (1984) and incorporate a personal aspect of designer Arashi Yanagawa, who has a background as a boxer. This collection, imbued with keywords such as sensuality and pain, universality, oppression, and confinement, is also influenced by the works of American contemporary artist Nancy Grossman. JLS's characteristic decorative details, such as belts, bondage, studs, and multi-zippers, are incorporated with a stronger sense of spirit.
For the women's collection, attention was paid to the female figures appearing in Mapplethorpe's works. In particular, inspired by photographs of female bodybuilder Lisa Lyon, the shapes found in corsets and bustiers are applied to many items. Bold gathering, tuck darts, and power shoulders are also incorporated, and restraints and belts appearing in Horn's works are reimagined as lingerie strap parts, elevating them into functional details.
The original graphic, a play on "A MUSE" and "AMUSE," is by Katariina Lamberg. The jewelry collaboration with YOSHiKO CREATiON continues this season, with delicate and elaborate pieces such as necklaces made of connected stiletto knives and rings with corset motifs.
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